pictures:http://picasaweb.google.com/terricallaway/TallinnEstoniaNov2008#
Hi everyone, it has been a while since I have written I know, but I am finally settled back in Sylacauga. I am trying to be glad to be home but I must say I keep thinking about the things I wished I had done before we left Europe. Oh well.
Back in November we had a wonderful long weekend in Tallinn, Estonia. This city is partially walled and filled with old medieval buildings. Because it is a capital city, there are many embassies and government buildings in the old, walled section of town. There is a lovely port area and sections of town that are very modern - much what you would expect to see in any European capital city. We stayed in a rather basic European hotel – not much more than a closet with a very hard bed and a tiny bathroom. But it was clean; right on the edge of the walled city area, and it cost about 125 Euros, which is pretty inexpensive for hotels in Europe.
Getting from St. Petersburg to Tallinn was a six-hour adventure. We took the metro (subway) to the Finnish train station (not to be confused with the Moscow train station – I didn’t know the difference until that morning! Thank goodness for Elena, our Russian friend). One of our translators had purchased the tickets to Helsinki for us, but we got them so late that none of the six of us sat together. The rail car was full but Elena was able to convince several Finns and Russians to swap seats so we were able to visit during the five-hour train ride.
The difference in scenery between Russia and Finland was absolutely shocking. I have commented before that the weather in Russia was so gray and depressing, and that was why I thought the scenery was so dreary. However, once we passed into Finland, the homes were nicely painted, the yards were tidy, common areas were trimmed and trash-free, grass or vegetation covered most of the dirt (rather than mud everywhere), roads were in good shape. There was no difference in the weather; actually Helsinki is a little farther north and has a bit less daylight in the winter. It was not post-card beautiful by any means, but we were traveling through countryside that was well maintained. It is another example of how different life is in Russia than in the rest of the western world. I don’t know who owns the land – perhaps the government still does. Maybe it is rich Russians who live in a big city. But we passed houses (many were shacks in my opinion) and little towns in both Russia and Finland. Most Russians are used to tough conditions; they don’t have the means or the infrastructure to make their surroundings pleasant; they are happy with only slight improvements in their lives. It is sad, I know, but in a way it is a lesson for us. They appreciate their health, their families, their lives. But I digress….
Elena engaged cabs to take us from the train station in Helsinki to the seaport on the Gulf of Finland. Helsinki is a lovely, modern city with many lovely old buildings and plenty of new ones. We boarded a large, very well appointed ferry to take us across the gulf. There were cars in the bottom of the boat but most people were like us – just crossing the water. The three-hour journey passed quickly as the waiting area provided a full view of the water in a graduated two-story space. There was a snack bar with pretty good food and of course, beer and wine. We visited more and played cards.
I really didn’t know what to expect once we arrived in Tallinn. I only remembered a little about the Baltic countries from school days – the area is very old and has been a part of most all the countries in the region at one time or another. I think they were independent at the beginning of the 1900s but after the world wars, ended up a part of Russia. I think they were ‘semi-independent’ states and part of the communist bloc, but not like Poland. Regardless, when they became independent in the 1980s, much progress was made to become modern like the rest of Europe, and they have made tremendous progress. Much of the modern part of the city has been updated, and although it is not as modern as many places in Europe, it is improving.
Our first meal was at a local brewery – we walked to the medieval part of the city, and enjoyed roasted meats, vegetables, and sampled the local beers and wines. After about an hour, we were entertained with local traditional Estonian dancers who were young and very much enjoying dancing for us. I am not sure of the significance of the moose, but all seemed to enjoy him. The highlight for the guys was an appearance by the Jagermeister girls. We sampled a test tube full of Jager and Martha, please tell Ed, I saved a test tube for him! I cannot say I liked it, but it was fun. By this time, the restaurant was very full and we enjoyed listening to many languages – Russian, German, Estonia, Polish, and Finnish. It was a pretty popular place.
The next day it was delightful to walk around the old part of town. This area partially still walled – amazing to think about how long those walls have been there. There were many old churches – mostly orthodox, but many medieval as well – coats of arms of the prominent families of the time were on the walls the art was very old. Some churches were restored and grand, others were showing sign of considerable ‘love’, but were nevertheless, lovely. We did a little shopping – I got a warm hat and a lovely amber necklace; and some funky jewelry for the girls. Mid afternoon we ate ‘dinner’ at a traditional medieval restaurant. The food that was served were things available in the middle ages – several types of game plus fish, many root vegetables like leeks and beets (no potatoes – John said they actually came from the Americas), cabbages/sauerkraut, beans, etc. I cannot say I liked the food especially but it was tasty and a good experience.
On Monday we walked around for a little while and then headed back to the ferry. We spent the afternoon and night in Helsinki, but by the time we got to Helsinki, the sun was already down (it was setting at about 4 in November) so we walked around in the dark – the old buildings were beautiful but the pictures don’t show it. It was a little cold but we had fun. I did enjoy walking through Stockman’s the big department store in Helsinki. It had everything – clothes, shoes, home goods, groceries, appliances, books. I cannot remember how many stories tall it was but they were busy. Factoring the exchange rate, it was really expensive too. So we just looked.
We got up early the next morning and met the train back to St. Petersburg.
I hope to be sending you something once a week going forward to show the other things we did. If you want me to delete your name from the distribution, let me know. I am posting all the emails on a blog site (I still can’t figure out how to put all the pictures there. I need Clare’s help). The site is at Blogspot and can be reached at http://terricallawayinrussia.blogspot.com/. I am hoping to get a link to the pictures that go with the email on each posting. We’ll see. An expat I met in St. Pete also has a blog - http://fromrussiawithlurve.blogspot.com/ and hers is very interesting – and looks better too!
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
2008-11(Nov)-30 Russian Wedding Reception
http://picasaweb.google.com/terricallaway/RussianWeddingReception#
The wedding reception was very nice. We first checked our coats – this is common practice where ever you go in the winter – the shopping mall, schools, museums, restaurants. Only tourists tip the coat check attendants. Tipping is an interesting situation – you must be careful not to insult as some services are part of a job well done, not an extra service. That is another story. Next we waited in the foyer for the bridal party. Since we (those on the bus) arrived at the same time as the limo I expected a short wait but after 20 minutes, figured they were finishing their champagne or something. We were given a glass of wine while we waited. The reception director (or perhaps mistress of ceremony) told us what to do, where to stand, when to cheer – all in Russian with a new interpreter to explain to the expats. We cheered as they entered the restaurant. Then Olga's parents presented Olga and Ray with a very decorative loaf of bread which had a portion of it hollowed out to hold salt. Then they each broke off a piece of the bread as in a contest to see who would get the largest portion. Salt went everywhere, everyone cheered and Olga got the biggest portion of the loaf. This means that she will be the boss of the family. We don't remember what the salt meant.
Next the witnesses made an arch for the newlyweds to enter into the reception hall. Since everything was contained in a compact space, they actually processed around the area one complete time and then went into the dining room. I guess in larger venues, the procession into the dinner hall takes longer. But music played, people clapped and we all followed to take our places at dinner. Each place was set very formally (see the pictures), there were lovely flowers decorating the tables and the rest of the space on the table was filled with traditional antipastos, salads, etc. There were plates of sausages (like summer sausage we get from Wisconsin); traditional Russian winter salads made from potatoes and canned or preserved vegetables with mayonnaise (the ones I had here at other places were very good); red caviar on toast-like crackers; pickled or smoked fishes including herring; fresh vegetables – tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers with a few lettuces; all kinds of pickles and olives; and other dishes I cannot remember. I was full just sampling all the choices. There was also water, fruit punch and kvass (a traditional non-alcohol drink made kind of like beer. I have not met an American or Canadian who likes it!), plus baskets of bread. Meanwhile, champagne was served (a very traditional European start to a meal). Next we were served our choice of wines. John and I laughed out loud when we saw that they served Yellow Tail wines. We were not at all trying to make fun but first of all, they are expensive in Russia, and secondly we have enjoyed many other wines in Russia (I must admit, most of the reds have been from Chile, not Europe, but still they are much better than Yellow Tail and cheaper!). Perhaps they were trying to make us feel at home since we can buy Yellow Tail at World Market, Target and sometimes Wal-Mart. Once everyone had wine, very cold vodka was poured into the 'shot' glasses at each of our places.
Throughout the meal, the mistress of ceremony sang songs, told stories, asked questions of the participants and the sweet young girl tried to translate. However, we got the gist of the comments – how lucky Ray was to have a lovely bride, the family was thrilled to have such a good provider for their daughter, life would be filled with happiness and children…all predictable sentiments for a wedding anywhere. Every few minutes there was a toast – we drank whatever beverage we wanted. However, the tradition in Russia is that if you are toasting a lady, it is rude to drink only a sip of the vodka. So the whole shot was downed. I had two. Enough. We had speeches/toasts from the witnesses, the parents, the grandparents, the 'second' mama (remember they don't have Godparents) and most of the guys in the office. There was lots of laughing, although I must admit, Olga seemed a bit overwhelmed. I suspect Ray planned most of the reception, however I understand the father did buy the wines and vodka. We took a break for the first dance – really just like what we do in the US. We danced a while and then returned to our seats. They do have a tradition to pass the tray for the bride and groom to see who gets the most money (almost like pinning dollars on the bride's veil as is done at some ethnic weddings). We also had a visit from "Peter the Great" with some proclamation about the wedding. I really didn't get that but the Russians seemed to enjoy his visit. I don't have a picture of him but he really did look like the pictures of Peter in the museums. We 'played' instruments along with the mistress of ceremonies; she played the keyboard, guitar, and accordion. Then we went outside for the fireworks. By now it is after 10:30 and some of the Americans are in great need of meat – they had entirely too much to drink for the novices they are (compared to the Russians). Finally we were served the main course – a goose and suckling pig, which were presented to the reception prior to serving. Meanwhile, even more toasts were made. The meat was very good. Soon however it was almost 11:30 and our drivers were engaged until only midnight, so some of us began to leave. I suspect that was very rude but we had no idea the dinner would last four hours. John and I stayed for the next shift of people to go home (we were sober) and were lucky to see a lovely presentation of the desert – a cheese cake presentation with something like sparklers. Unfortunately we didn't get to try it because we too had to leave.
I am sure this wedding is much fancier that the norm. We have seen several 'receptions' at a restaurant on our street and normally there are about 15 people there, not the 50 at this wedding. The meal was quite extravagant and at an especially nice place. I am sure Ray wanted it to be a very special.
Question of the day:Have you heard if the schools are good?
Basically everyone in Russia can read (pretty much a literate society). School starts with preschool because most women work but it seems like the kids are less regimented at school than are our children. From what I am told, every child starts Primary school (our 1st grade) knowing their numbers, colors, letters, etc. and they can do basic reading. For the first three years kids have 'classes' for only about 3 hours a day and the rest of the time is play time – including arts. As a matter of routine, the children attend museums, plays, concerts. Every time I have been to the Hermitage or the Russian Museum, there have been groups of Russian children – all ages from preschool through college, with a guide being instructed about something. In the middle grades, the school day lasts from about 9 to 3 and then it is even longer for high school. Parents can request their children have early lessons for special things – extra help, a foreign language, music lessons, but I think they pay for those. Families also choose the type of school to send their children – German school concentrates on German language, culture and history; English school concentrates on the same for England or the US. There are schools that specialize in many things: science, military, math, trades, and the arts for example. It is my understanding that much of Europe educates the same way. Children determine early on what they are most interested in and focus on that without compromising literature and language. Now whether or not they are good according to our standards is up for much debate. John will tell you their translators are excellent learners. Their English is very good (why they were hired in the first place). But a couple has admitted to me that they understand very little about math. Since they were concentrating on languages, they didn't really do any math or science in high school. Some are better 'self-starters' than others which is rather foreign to their culture of from Soviet times – do what you are told and do it a specific way. So they seem to be evidence that Russian schooling is good. But one might argue that their ambition is really what makes them good. Nevertheless, the fact the literacy is so high makes me think they do something right. No one I know sends their children to Russian schools. I must say that I don't know that many with kids, but ex-pats I have met , not just the English, Canadians or Americans, sends them to the Anglo-American school at a tuition cost of $20,000 per child per year borne by the companies who have sent the families to St. Petersburg. There is also an International School in town which is just starting since there are more and more foreigners in town. I understand Russians with money often send their children to European boarding schools (as do the rich Europeans).
More on colleges and universities next
Take care
The wedding reception was very nice. We first checked our coats – this is common practice where ever you go in the winter – the shopping mall, schools, museums, restaurants. Only tourists tip the coat check attendants. Tipping is an interesting situation – you must be careful not to insult as some services are part of a job well done, not an extra service. That is another story. Next we waited in the foyer for the bridal party. Since we (those on the bus) arrived at the same time as the limo I expected a short wait but after 20 minutes, figured they were finishing their champagne or something. We were given a glass of wine while we waited. The reception director (or perhaps mistress of ceremony) told us what to do, where to stand, when to cheer – all in Russian with a new interpreter to explain to the expats. We cheered as they entered the restaurant. Then Olga's parents presented Olga and Ray with a very decorative loaf of bread which had a portion of it hollowed out to hold salt. Then they each broke off a piece of the bread as in a contest to see who would get the largest portion. Salt went everywhere, everyone cheered and Olga got the biggest portion of the loaf. This means that she will be the boss of the family. We don't remember what the salt meant.
Next the witnesses made an arch for the newlyweds to enter into the reception hall. Since everything was contained in a compact space, they actually processed around the area one complete time and then went into the dining room. I guess in larger venues, the procession into the dinner hall takes longer. But music played, people clapped and we all followed to take our places at dinner. Each place was set very formally (see the pictures), there were lovely flowers decorating the tables and the rest of the space on the table was filled with traditional antipastos, salads, etc. There were plates of sausages (like summer sausage we get from Wisconsin); traditional Russian winter salads made from potatoes and canned or preserved vegetables with mayonnaise (the ones I had here at other places were very good); red caviar on toast-like crackers; pickled or smoked fishes including herring; fresh vegetables – tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers with a few lettuces; all kinds of pickles and olives; and other dishes I cannot remember. I was full just sampling all the choices. There was also water, fruit punch and kvass (a traditional non-alcohol drink made kind of like beer. I have not met an American or Canadian who likes it!), plus baskets of bread. Meanwhile, champagne was served (a very traditional European start to a meal). Next we were served our choice of wines. John and I laughed out loud when we saw that they served Yellow Tail wines. We were not at all trying to make fun but first of all, they are expensive in Russia, and secondly we have enjoyed many other wines in Russia (I must admit, most of the reds have been from Chile, not Europe, but still they are much better than Yellow Tail and cheaper!). Perhaps they were trying to make us feel at home since we can buy Yellow Tail at World Market, Target and sometimes Wal-Mart. Once everyone had wine, very cold vodka was poured into the 'shot' glasses at each of our places.
Throughout the meal, the mistress of ceremony sang songs, told stories, asked questions of the participants and the sweet young girl tried to translate. However, we got the gist of the comments – how lucky Ray was to have a lovely bride, the family was thrilled to have such a good provider for their daughter, life would be filled with happiness and children…all predictable sentiments for a wedding anywhere. Every few minutes there was a toast – we drank whatever beverage we wanted. However, the tradition in Russia is that if you are toasting a lady, it is rude to drink only a sip of the vodka. So the whole shot was downed. I had two. Enough. We had speeches/toasts from the witnesses, the parents, the grandparents, the 'second' mama (remember they don't have Godparents) and most of the guys in the office. There was lots of laughing, although I must admit, Olga seemed a bit overwhelmed. I suspect Ray planned most of the reception, however I understand the father did buy the wines and vodka. We took a break for the first dance – really just like what we do in the US. We danced a while and then returned to our seats. They do have a tradition to pass the tray for the bride and groom to see who gets the most money (almost like pinning dollars on the bride's veil as is done at some ethnic weddings). We also had a visit from "Peter the Great" with some proclamation about the wedding. I really didn't get that but the Russians seemed to enjoy his visit. I don't have a picture of him but he really did look like the pictures of Peter in the museums. We 'played' instruments along with the mistress of ceremonies; she played the keyboard, guitar, and accordion. Then we went outside for the fireworks. By now it is after 10:30 and some of the Americans are in great need of meat – they had entirely too much to drink for the novices they are (compared to the Russians). Finally we were served the main course – a goose and suckling pig, which were presented to the reception prior to serving. Meanwhile, even more toasts were made. The meat was very good. Soon however it was almost 11:30 and our drivers were engaged until only midnight, so some of us began to leave. I suspect that was very rude but we had no idea the dinner would last four hours. John and I stayed for the next shift of people to go home (we were sober) and were lucky to see a lovely presentation of the desert – a cheese cake presentation with something like sparklers. Unfortunately we didn't get to try it because we too had to leave.
I am sure this wedding is much fancier that the norm. We have seen several 'receptions' at a restaurant on our street and normally there are about 15 people there, not the 50 at this wedding. The meal was quite extravagant and at an especially nice place. I am sure Ray wanted it to be a very special.
Question of the day:Have you heard if the schools are good?
Basically everyone in Russia can read (pretty much a literate society). School starts with preschool because most women work but it seems like the kids are less regimented at school than are our children. From what I am told, every child starts Primary school (our 1st grade) knowing their numbers, colors, letters, etc. and they can do basic reading. For the first three years kids have 'classes' for only about 3 hours a day and the rest of the time is play time – including arts. As a matter of routine, the children attend museums, plays, concerts. Every time I have been to the Hermitage or the Russian Museum, there have been groups of Russian children – all ages from preschool through college, with a guide being instructed about something. In the middle grades, the school day lasts from about 9 to 3 and then it is even longer for high school. Parents can request their children have early lessons for special things – extra help, a foreign language, music lessons, but I think they pay for those. Families also choose the type of school to send their children – German school concentrates on German language, culture and history; English school concentrates on the same for England or the US. There are schools that specialize in many things: science, military, math, trades, and the arts for example. It is my understanding that much of Europe educates the same way. Children determine early on what they are most interested in and focus on that without compromising literature and language. Now whether or not they are good according to our standards is up for much debate. John will tell you their translators are excellent learners. Their English is very good (why they were hired in the first place). But a couple has admitted to me that they understand very little about math. Since they were concentrating on languages, they didn't really do any math or science in high school. Some are better 'self-starters' than others which is rather foreign to their culture of from Soviet times – do what you are told and do it a specific way. So they seem to be evidence that Russian schooling is good. But one might argue that their ambition is really what makes them good. Nevertheless, the fact the literacy is so high makes me think they do something right. No one I know sends their children to Russian schools. I must say that I don't know that many with kids, but ex-pats I have met , not just the English, Canadians or Americans, sends them to the Anglo-American school at a tuition cost of $20,000 per child per year borne by the companies who have sent the families to St. Petersburg. There is also an International School in town which is just starting since there are more and more foreigners in town. I understand Russians with money often send their children to European boarding schools (as do the rich Europeans).
More on colleges and universities next
Take care
2008-11(Nov)-28 Russian Wedding
http://picasaweb.google.com/terricallaway/RussianWedding#
HI everyone,I guess you all understand my long absence. Since we found out John's project has been put on hold, we have been to Alabama for ten days, and are now half way through our European holiday. More about that later.
Now I would like to share our experience at a Russian Wedding. Charles Ray is an American who John has worked with only briefly. However, he invited us (all the expats working in the office and their spouses who were in Russia). This man is in his 40s and the bride, Olga is 29. Charles has been working in Russia for more than 10 years and Olga worked with him at the International Paper Mill in Svetogorst which is on the Russia, Finland border. In fact, most expats who work there live in Finland, the Russian workers live all around that part of Russia. I had only met him once briefly and so I was delighted to be invited. We received an invitation that was rolled up like a diploma and decorated with lace. The wedding was Friday, October 24.Some of the things I understood about Russian weddings proved to be false (or perhaps there is as much variety in Russian weddings as there are in ours). The occasion was on a Friday night so some people only went to the reception only. John didn't want to rush and he thought we would be waiting outside for the couple to come out of the palace, so only I went to the actual wedding thinking I would be outside on the street until the newlyweds came out. The couple chose the wedding palace on our street for their vows, so I just walked over, with my bouquet of flowers in hand (no yellow flowers and always odd numbers). It was cold enough for coats and gloves but not freezing. Once I got there, I couldn't find anyone I knew. So I called John who called some of the guys he knew was going to the ceremony and I learned we were supposed to go into the building with the family. Inside was a beautifully decorated space that looked like it was built in the late 1700s, and it really reminded me of an antebellum mansion. It was beautiful. Everyone was required to check their coats and go to a 'waiting room'. There were at least five wedding groups inside. When it was time for Olga and Charles, they and their witnesses (best man and maid of honor, I guess) went into one room and their guests to another. Beautiful, traditional music played over an excellent sound system. About thirty of us were in pews or standing. Then double doors opened and they entered together with the witnesses, they walked up to the official who was a lovely woman in her 40s dressed in a dressy pink suit. There was also an interpreter to translate everything into English. Olga's family does not speak English, although she does. I don't really remember all that was said – stuff about family, children, happiness, commitment, long life, trust, etc. Not a word was mentioned about God although it was not 'anti-religion' either. It was much 'softer' than I expected a civil ceremony to be, and it was longer. The parents were recognized (no one from Charles' family came. I don't know anything about his situation). Then they had to sign the marriage certificate. It all lasted about 10 minutes - pictures were taken the whole time. Once they were pronounced married, all the congregation offered congratulations and gave them flowers. Pictures continued on the main staircase of the building as we were hurried out. The next wedding group was ready to have their ceremony - They were rushing up the other staircase so I couldn't get a clear picture.
After the wedding we boarded a bus for the Peter and Paul Fortress, the oldest part of the city. John and I went there in January when we first toured St. Petersburg. On the fortress is a fabulous church where the czars were buried. In fact, about 10 years ago the remains of the last czar, his wife and three of their five children were discovered near the Ural Mountains and entombed with the rest of the czars. My next note will describe the wedding reception, but I have included pictures taken outside the fortress, including the fireworks that were set off halfway through the four hour dinner reception.
Question of the week:
Are you doing any reading?
Can you find English language best sellers? There are two English bookstores that I have found. I bought the "Amber Room" for a book club I was joining and the price on the paperback was $5.99. I paid the equivalent of $12 (300 rubles) for it. However, there are a few English books in the larger Russian bookstores and plenty of guide books in English. Also there are plenty of dictionaries - Russian/English, Russian/German, Russian/French, Russian/Polish etc. You can also find current best sellers in Russian - with the same covers on the books. The Russians are avid readers-many read books on the subway (the Metro) - more so than magazines or newspapers. However, the newspapers are posted on boards on the street. I have read several books mom gave me - I don't watch TV! see ya
HI everyone,I guess you all understand my long absence. Since we found out John's project has been put on hold, we have been to Alabama for ten days, and are now half way through our European holiday. More about that later.
Now I would like to share our experience at a Russian Wedding. Charles Ray is an American who John has worked with only briefly. However, he invited us (all the expats working in the office and their spouses who were in Russia). This man is in his 40s and the bride, Olga is 29. Charles has been working in Russia for more than 10 years and Olga worked with him at the International Paper Mill in Svetogorst which is on the Russia, Finland border. In fact, most expats who work there live in Finland, the Russian workers live all around that part of Russia. I had only met him once briefly and so I was delighted to be invited. We received an invitation that was rolled up like a diploma and decorated with lace. The wedding was Friday, October 24.Some of the things I understood about Russian weddings proved to be false (or perhaps there is as much variety in Russian weddings as there are in ours). The occasion was on a Friday night so some people only went to the reception only. John didn't want to rush and he thought we would be waiting outside for the couple to come out of the palace, so only I went to the actual wedding thinking I would be outside on the street until the newlyweds came out. The couple chose the wedding palace on our street for their vows, so I just walked over, with my bouquet of flowers in hand (no yellow flowers and always odd numbers). It was cold enough for coats and gloves but not freezing. Once I got there, I couldn't find anyone I knew. So I called John who called some of the guys he knew was going to the ceremony and I learned we were supposed to go into the building with the family. Inside was a beautifully decorated space that looked like it was built in the late 1700s, and it really reminded me of an antebellum mansion. It was beautiful. Everyone was required to check their coats and go to a 'waiting room'. There were at least five wedding groups inside. When it was time for Olga and Charles, they and their witnesses (best man and maid of honor, I guess) went into one room and their guests to another. Beautiful, traditional music played over an excellent sound system. About thirty of us were in pews or standing. Then double doors opened and they entered together with the witnesses, they walked up to the official who was a lovely woman in her 40s dressed in a dressy pink suit. There was also an interpreter to translate everything into English. Olga's family does not speak English, although she does. I don't really remember all that was said – stuff about family, children, happiness, commitment, long life, trust, etc. Not a word was mentioned about God although it was not 'anti-religion' either. It was much 'softer' than I expected a civil ceremony to be, and it was longer. The parents were recognized (no one from Charles' family came. I don't know anything about his situation). Then they had to sign the marriage certificate. It all lasted about 10 minutes - pictures were taken the whole time. Once they were pronounced married, all the congregation offered congratulations and gave them flowers. Pictures continued on the main staircase of the building as we were hurried out. The next wedding group was ready to have their ceremony - They were rushing up the other staircase so I couldn't get a clear picture.
After the wedding we boarded a bus for the Peter and Paul Fortress, the oldest part of the city. John and I went there in January when we first toured St. Petersburg. On the fortress is a fabulous church where the czars were buried. In fact, about 10 years ago the remains of the last czar, his wife and three of their five children were discovered near the Ural Mountains and entombed with the rest of the czars. My next note will describe the wedding reception, but I have included pictures taken outside the fortress, including the fireworks that were set off halfway through the four hour dinner reception.
Question of the week:
Are you doing any reading?
Can you find English language best sellers? There are two English bookstores that I have found. I bought the "Amber Room" for a book club I was joining and the price on the paperback was $5.99. I paid the equivalent of $12 (300 rubles) for it. However, there are a few English books in the larger Russian bookstores and plenty of guide books in English. Also there are plenty of dictionaries - Russian/English, Russian/German, Russian/French, Russian/Polish etc. You can also find current best sellers in Russian - with the same covers on the books. The Russians are avid readers-many read books on the subway (the Metro) - more so than magazines or newspapers. However, the newspapers are posted on boards on the street. I have read several books mom gave me - I don't watch TV! see ya
Saturday, October 25, 2008
2008-10(Oct)-25 Novgorod Kremlin
http://picasaweb.google.com/terricallaway/NovgorodKremlin#
This will be my final installment on Novgorod, the oldest town in Russia. The pictures you will see are from the Novgorod Kremlin, the old walled city. About 30 of us took the bus ride from St. Pete city center to Novgorod. The first picture is of three of the lovely ladies who work for BE&K. The one on the left is John's translator, Nina; the one on the right, Natasha, took me shopping when we were setting up the apartment; Julia is rather young, still in school and working too. She is like the office aid - she does a variety of things as they are needed. It is very unusual for university students to work but she got special permission, in large part because she is working for a US company. She is fluent in Spanish and although not as good as the translators, her English is very good.
It was a lovely fall day - overcast but not raining. As we were driving in, I thought the actually town was rather dreary. It is a fairly large city of over 200,000 people, and it appeared to be still in the soviet times. The buildings, whether 50 or 200 years old, looked like they were in need of a facelift. There was some new buildings construction going on, but nothing like you would expect in such a large city.
However, in the old city center, almost every building was in the process of being repaired. Most buildings looked like the ones in St. Petersburg but on a smaller scale. They were constructed of brick, stuccoed and then painted. In 2009, the city will celebrate their 1150th anniversary, so the city is trying to get ready for a big celebration.
The bus was parked in an area across the river from the Kremlin. Here seven very old churches are displayed in a garden-like setting. Apparently seven different noblemen built these churches as a gift to the town. I guess like keeping up with the Jones' in medieval times. Most had been 're-stuccoed' but the one I found most interesting was not. Close to the river, it looked like they were building a grassy pavilion with arches around the perimeter. We learned that this area was severely damaged in WWII and the pavilion area was being built in the location of a large indoor market that had been destroyed by the bombing. Prior to the war, the building had arches all around the outside. There is a large shopping center in St. Pete, Gustini Divor, that looks very much like this. I guess that was a common Russian style. Later I'll show you guys what the shopping is like here - there are indoor markets that are like a farmers market inside and there are stores that look like Whole Foods (upscale food mart in the US) - and everything in between, including Walmart look-alikes!
Back to Novgorod, we took several pictures prior to walking across the bridge to the Kremlin. The community was 'founded' in 859 and the walls to protect the city were built later in that century. Because it was an important medieval city, it had many large buildings, a huge bell tower and a beautiful church, St. Sophia. The present church was built about 1050 which replaced one built in 980. The frescos were first painted in the 1200s, and they have been repaired and repainted over the years because of fires. The most recent repairs occurred after WWII but the church received only minor damage. However, a Spanish unit took the cross off the top of the church to Spain. It has been returned and is now presented inside the church - almost like an icon.
There are several Saint Sophia churches in Russia. I always thought Sophia was a person who became a saint but our guide tried to explain that Sophia is the wisdom of God in Jesus. Being simple-minded, I didn't understand that so maybe this will help: In the mystical theology of the Eastern Orthodox Church wisdom is understood as the Divine Logos who became incarnate as Jesus Christ.In the Holy Family, Sophia is often seen as being represented by the Theotokos (Virgin Mary). Sophia is expressed as the Holy Wisdom of God and the saints, obtained through humility, and Mary the Theotokos is the first and greatest of all saints. In Eastern Orthodoxy humility is the highest wisdom and is to be sought more than any other virtue. It is humility that cultivates not only the Holy Wisdom, but humility (in contrast to knowledge) is the defining quality that grants people salvation and entrance into Heaven. The Hagia Sophia or Holy Wisdom church in Constantinople was the religious center of the Eastern Orthodox Church for nearly a thousand years.(from Wikipedia)
After seeing the church, we walked to the large sculpture that was unveiled in 1862 as a tribute to the most important Russian historical figures. There were many other buildings and a WWII memorial. I had to take more construction pictures - three guys 'laying' round stones in the sand one at a time to make a patio; the large palace that dozens of guys were working on - taking off old stucco, re-plastering with new stucco and painting all at the same time; and the two guys hanging from ropes and painting the church.
Here is information from UNESCO: there is a good picture of St. Sophia there
http://portal.unesco.org/en/ev.php-URL_ID=42622&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html
Novgorod is the oldest Russian city, it being mentioned in chronicles since 859 A.D. The city itself was built gradually from the end of the ninth century, subsequently taking the name Novgorod (The New City). During the middle of the tenth century, Novgorod became a prosperous medieval city, situated on the trade route between the Baltic and the Byzantine empire. Its historical monuments were inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1992.
AND MORE INFORMATION CAN BE FOUND AT
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veliky_Novgorod
Question of the week: Are there any antiques stores like we have in the states?
There are lots of antique stores that sell all kinds of items. However it is against the law to remove anything from Russia that is over 100 hundred years old, even if you bring it in with you. So I guess, if your wedding ring belonged to your grandmother from Canada, and you wore it over her, you would have to give it to the government when you left. That may be an extreme example, but it is my understanding that old items are confiscated often. The law also says you cannot take any art from the country without papers. I bought two paintings at the craft show a while back and the artist had to go to the organizer of the show to get papers saying the date I bought them and the price I paid. Then of course the paper was stamped - EVERY official document (even some sales receipts) have to be stamped - purchase orders, delivery tickets to name some. There are lots of notaries here. But back to the antiques question, please remember we live in a very expensive part of Russia, the stores are quite fancy - like the ones in the French Quarter in New Orleans. I have not been shopping in rural areas and I expect that is where we could find some old things at good prices. That having been said, the vast majority of the citizens of Russia have only had the things required to get by. Even today that is true. Although the standard of living is improving, this is still a third-world country. We in the US have a closet full of clothes. Russians may have a handful of outfits. Some of them may be rather expensive, but to them less is more. Their homes/apartments are small and there is no where to put much stuff. Items that were owned by the elite were very nice and still command a very high price.
Until Next time: Hugs to all, Terri
This will be my final installment on Novgorod, the oldest town in Russia. The pictures you will see are from the Novgorod Kremlin, the old walled city. About 30 of us took the bus ride from St. Pete city center to Novgorod. The first picture is of three of the lovely ladies who work for BE&K. The one on the left is John's translator, Nina; the one on the right, Natasha, took me shopping when we were setting up the apartment; Julia is rather young, still in school and working too. She is like the office aid - she does a variety of things as they are needed. It is very unusual for university students to work but she got special permission, in large part because she is working for a US company. She is fluent in Spanish and although not as good as the translators, her English is very good.
It was a lovely fall day - overcast but not raining. As we were driving in, I thought the actually town was rather dreary. It is a fairly large city of over 200,000 people, and it appeared to be still in the soviet times. The buildings, whether 50 or 200 years old, looked like they were in need of a facelift. There was some new buildings construction going on, but nothing like you would expect in such a large city.
However, in the old city center, almost every building was in the process of being repaired. Most buildings looked like the ones in St. Petersburg but on a smaller scale. They were constructed of brick, stuccoed and then painted. In 2009, the city will celebrate their 1150th anniversary, so the city is trying to get ready for a big celebration.
The bus was parked in an area across the river from the Kremlin. Here seven very old churches are displayed in a garden-like setting. Apparently seven different noblemen built these churches as a gift to the town. I guess like keeping up with the Jones' in medieval times. Most had been 're-stuccoed' but the one I found most interesting was not. Close to the river, it looked like they were building a grassy pavilion with arches around the perimeter. We learned that this area was severely damaged in WWII and the pavilion area was being built in the location of a large indoor market that had been destroyed by the bombing. Prior to the war, the building had arches all around the outside. There is a large shopping center in St. Pete, Gustini Divor, that looks very much like this. I guess that was a common Russian style. Later I'll show you guys what the shopping is like here - there are indoor markets that are like a farmers market inside and there are stores that look like Whole Foods (upscale food mart in the US) - and everything in between, including Walmart look-alikes!
Back to Novgorod, we took several pictures prior to walking across the bridge to the Kremlin. The community was 'founded' in 859 and the walls to protect the city were built later in that century. Because it was an important medieval city, it had many large buildings, a huge bell tower and a beautiful church, St. Sophia. The present church was built about 1050 which replaced one built in 980. The frescos were first painted in the 1200s, and they have been repaired and repainted over the years because of fires. The most recent repairs occurred after WWII but the church received only minor damage. However, a Spanish unit took the cross off the top of the church to Spain. It has been returned and is now presented inside the church - almost like an icon.
There are several Saint Sophia churches in Russia. I always thought Sophia was a person who became a saint but our guide tried to explain that Sophia is the wisdom of God in Jesus. Being simple-minded, I didn't understand that so maybe this will help: In the mystical theology of the Eastern Orthodox Church wisdom is understood as the Divine Logos who became incarnate as Jesus Christ.In the Holy Family, Sophia is often seen as being represented by the Theotokos (Virgin Mary). Sophia is expressed as the Holy Wisdom of God and the saints, obtained through humility, and Mary the Theotokos is the first and greatest of all saints. In Eastern Orthodoxy humility is the highest wisdom and is to be sought more than any other virtue. It is humility that cultivates not only the Holy Wisdom, but humility (in contrast to knowledge) is the defining quality that grants people salvation and entrance into Heaven. The Hagia Sophia or Holy Wisdom church in Constantinople was the religious center of the Eastern Orthodox Church for nearly a thousand years.(from Wikipedia)
After seeing the church, we walked to the large sculpture that was unveiled in 1862 as a tribute to the most important Russian historical figures. There were many other buildings and a WWII memorial. I had to take more construction pictures - three guys 'laying' round stones in the sand one at a time to make a patio; the large palace that dozens of guys were working on - taking off old stucco, re-plastering with new stucco and painting all at the same time; and the two guys hanging from ropes and painting the church.
Here is information from UNESCO: there is a good picture of St. Sophia there
http://portal.unesco.org/en/ev.php-URL_ID=42622&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html
Novgorod is the oldest Russian city, it being mentioned in chronicles since 859 A.D. The city itself was built gradually from the end of the ninth century, subsequently taking the name Novgorod (The New City). During the middle of the tenth century, Novgorod became a prosperous medieval city, situated on the trade route between the Baltic and the Byzantine empire. Its historical monuments were inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1992.
AND MORE INFORMATION CAN BE FOUND AT
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veliky_Novgorod
Question of the week: Are there any antiques stores like we have in the states?
There are lots of antique stores that sell all kinds of items. However it is against the law to remove anything from Russia that is over 100 hundred years old, even if you bring it in with you. So I guess, if your wedding ring belonged to your grandmother from Canada, and you wore it over her, you would have to give it to the government when you left. That may be an extreme example, but it is my understanding that old items are confiscated often. The law also says you cannot take any art from the country without papers. I bought two paintings at the craft show a while back and the artist had to go to the organizer of the show to get papers saying the date I bought them and the price I paid. Then of course the paper was stamped - EVERY official document (even some sales receipts) have to be stamped - purchase orders, delivery tickets to name some. There are lots of notaries here. But back to the antiques question, please remember we live in a very expensive part of Russia, the stores are quite fancy - like the ones in the French Quarter in New Orleans. I have not been shopping in rural areas and I expect that is where we could find some old things at good prices. That having been said, the vast majority of the citizens of Russia have only had the things required to get by. Even today that is true. Although the standard of living is improving, this is still a third-world country. We in the US have a closet full of clothes. Russians may have a handful of outfits. Some of them may be rather expensive, but to them less is more. Their homes/apartments are small and there is no where to put much stuff. Items that were owned by the elite were very nice and still command a very high price.
Until Next time: Hugs to all, Terri
2008-10(Oct)-18 Hat Show
http://picasaweb.google.com/terricallaway/HatShow#
Hi everyone, this email will interest the ladies I am sure...the guys - well I don't know.
On Wednesday I attended a hat show at the British Consulate. It was a fund raiser for EveryChild, an international organization dedicated to assisting children around the world. It is a British charity and there is an office in St. Petersburg working with children in institutional care primarily, but also with others. A very sweet young lady explained their work in St. Pete and I was impressed. Orphanages are very active here. Even though the abortion rate is very high, there are many unwanted children, particularly those with problems. This group works to provide basic needs for children - get them off the streets, provide shelter and basics and get them educated. If you are interested in supporting them, please let me know. My neighbor across the street is from the UK and can get you more information.
Back to the hat show. The designer is a woman who thought she could design and make hats. So she gave it a try. Now, several years later (and freedom from the soviet rule) she has two shops in the business center of St. Pete selling GORGEOUS hats and furs of every description. These are not cheap - the hats retail in the 10.000,00 ruble range ($400) and the fur coats in the many thousands. Amazing when you consider she was probably almost penniless before the soviets fell. I think you will enjoy the pictures.
Tonight we had dinner at the apartment of a colleague of John who works for BE&K East but is from Poland. His name is Marek (Polish for Mark) and his wife is Mariola (a Polish derivative of Mary). They have two sons in Poland and a daughter who studies at a university in Poland in architecture but is spending this year in Valencia, Spain. I was delighted to go to the dinner; John was pleased as well because he had visited them in Poland and Mariola is a wonderful cook. We had a wonderful evening. We arrived at about 5 pm and were greeted warmly - wine for all.
Also attending the meal was Marina (BE&K driver/translator), her daughter Ritta, her friend Lenny, and a Polish paper engineer who is working on the project with John and Marek. The eight of us sat around a table; Marek and Mariola served us Polish soup first- two sausages (one like a hot dog and the other like Polish sausage), hardboiled egg in a creamy broth with lots of spices. It was tasty - maybe not a soup I would want to eat often, but it was good. Of course we ate every bit they served us to show our appreciation for them having us! Also on the table were slices of several kinds of bread, olives and red (bell) peppers. The peppers here are so good - a very common condiment to meals.
Next we had the main course - served family style: a salad (finely chopped lettuce with cucumbers, onions, green/yellow/red peppers and a mild vinaigrette dressing); spaghetti with a meat sauce; rice with peas, peppers and spiced with seasonings (with a touch or curry); pork chops with a plum sauce; pan-fried chicken cutlets. Of course we had a serving of everything. All was good - my favorites were the rice and the chicken, John especially liked the pork. We ate way more than we would normally eat because we wanted Mariola to know how much we appreciated her cooking, and of course, because it was good. I will say that only the pasta and rice dishes were similar to what I have eaten in the US, but all was tasty. We sat down at 5:30 and remained at the table for about 3 1/2 hours - we had drinks of frozen vodka, flavored vodka, mixed drinks, more wine, juices, coke. As the conversation flowed, we toasted, told jokes, ate additional portions. Very pleasant and very relaxing. At about 9, they served us desert and coffee/tea (or more drinks if we preferred). We left at 9:30 as Ritta is only 6 and her mom, Marina wanted to get her home.
The conversation was delightful - Mariola, of course, speaks Polish and she knows a bit of Russian. She is taking English lessons and really is learning but she is rather embarrassed by her lack of ability to speak. I think she does great - way better than my Russian (which consists of understanding a word or two- Mariola can say English phrases). Understanding the words is much easier than trying to speak them. I am beginning to read words in Russian - menus and signs but cannot put more than two words together. Marek can speak pretty good Russian and rather good English; their Polish friend works with John and he speaks good English and Russian, plus is a terrific engineer - he sat next to me and was great to translate when the conversation was in Russian or Polish; Marina is the BE&K driver who most often takes me shopping so I know her well had Polish neighbors as a child so she remembers some Polish; her boyfriend, Lenny does not speak any English or Polish and neither does Ritta. Still, our time this evening went by so fast I was very sorry when we had to leave. We talked about travel, children, the soviet times in Russia and in Poland, the Catholic Church and its importance in Poland, paper mills, weddings, cooking, customs; we had lots of laughs. Ritta was playing with a Barbie doll, which of course, we all knew about. Mariola and Marek's second son is getting married next August and we were invited to the wedding in Poland and I really hope we can attend. What a thrill that would be.
We are going to a Russian wedding this week! I'll let you know about it later
Question of the week: Do people have pets?
I have seen very few dogs. A few with their owners on the street; a few rare strays in the park, but I think relative to the population, very few. However, I have been told that the people in the sleeping district have dogs - at least one on every floor of the high rise. Remember that the sleeping districts are in the 'suburbs' and most of the buildings were built in soviet times and look to me like housing projects that have been neglected for years. Honestly, Cabrini Green (in Chicago) was in much better shape, from the outside, than these 'apartment' buildings look. I have been told the apartments look very nice inside, even though the outsides look terrible (remember, the government owns the exterior of the buildings, the individuals own the insides) However, where we live, downtown, there are lots of cats. I've been in a dress shop where they roamed freely; they are in the parks and on the streets. People feed the strays - a lady on our street built a lean-to shelter for some against a building next to the sidewalk. I don't know how they stay warm in the winter. I guess I will soon see.
Hugs to all
Terri
Hi everyone, this email will interest the ladies I am sure...the guys - well I don't know.
On Wednesday I attended a hat show at the British Consulate. It was a fund raiser for EveryChild, an international organization dedicated to assisting children around the world. It is a British charity and there is an office in St. Petersburg working with children in institutional care primarily, but also with others. A very sweet young lady explained their work in St. Pete and I was impressed. Orphanages are very active here. Even though the abortion rate is very high, there are many unwanted children, particularly those with problems. This group works to provide basic needs for children - get them off the streets, provide shelter and basics and get them educated. If you are interested in supporting them, please let me know. My neighbor across the street is from the UK and can get you more information.
Back to the hat show. The designer is a woman who thought she could design and make hats. So she gave it a try. Now, several years later (and freedom from the soviet rule) she has two shops in the business center of St. Pete selling GORGEOUS hats and furs of every description. These are not cheap - the hats retail in the 10.000,00 ruble range ($400) and the fur coats in the many thousands. Amazing when you consider she was probably almost penniless before the soviets fell. I think you will enjoy the pictures.
Tonight we had dinner at the apartment of a colleague of John who works for BE&K East but is from Poland. His name is Marek (Polish for Mark) and his wife is Mariola (a Polish derivative of Mary). They have two sons in Poland and a daughter who studies at a university in Poland in architecture but is spending this year in Valencia, Spain. I was delighted to go to the dinner; John was pleased as well because he had visited them in Poland and Mariola is a wonderful cook. We had a wonderful evening. We arrived at about 5 pm and were greeted warmly - wine for all.
Also attending the meal was Marina (BE&K driver/translator), her daughter Ritta, her friend Lenny, and a Polish paper engineer who is working on the project with John and Marek. The eight of us sat around a table; Marek and Mariola served us Polish soup first- two sausages (one like a hot dog and the other like Polish sausage), hardboiled egg in a creamy broth with lots of spices. It was tasty - maybe not a soup I would want to eat often, but it was good. Of course we ate every bit they served us to show our appreciation for them having us! Also on the table were slices of several kinds of bread, olives and red (bell) peppers. The peppers here are so good - a very common condiment to meals.
Next we had the main course - served family style: a salad (finely chopped lettuce with cucumbers, onions, green/yellow/red peppers and a mild vinaigrette dressing); spaghetti with a meat sauce; rice with peas, peppers and spiced with seasonings (with a touch or curry); pork chops with a plum sauce; pan-fried chicken cutlets. Of course we had a serving of everything. All was good - my favorites were the rice and the chicken, John especially liked the pork. We ate way more than we would normally eat because we wanted Mariola to know how much we appreciated her cooking, and of course, because it was good. I will say that only the pasta and rice dishes were similar to what I have eaten in the US, but all was tasty. We sat down at 5:30 and remained at the table for about 3 1/2 hours - we had drinks of frozen vodka, flavored vodka, mixed drinks, more wine, juices, coke. As the conversation flowed, we toasted, told jokes, ate additional portions. Very pleasant and very relaxing. At about 9, they served us desert and coffee/tea (or more drinks if we preferred). We left at 9:30 as Ritta is only 6 and her mom, Marina wanted to get her home.
The conversation was delightful - Mariola, of course, speaks Polish and she knows a bit of Russian. She is taking English lessons and really is learning but she is rather embarrassed by her lack of ability to speak. I think she does great - way better than my Russian (which consists of understanding a word or two- Mariola can say English phrases). Understanding the words is much easier than trying to speak them. I am beginning to read words in Russian - menus and signs but cannot put more than two words together. Marek can speak pretty good Russian and rather good English; their Polish friend works with John and he speaks good English and Russian, plus is a terrific engineer - he sat next to me and was great to translate when the conversation was in Russian or Polish; Marina is the BE&K driver who most often takes me shopping so I know her well had Polish neighbors as a child so she remembers some Polish; her boyfriend, Lenny does not speak any English or Polish and neither does Ritta. Still, our time this evening went by so fast I was very sorry when we had to leave. We talked about travel, children, the soviet times in Russia and in Poland, the Catholic Church and its importance in Poland, paper mills, weddings, cooking, customs; we had lots of laughs. Ritta was playing with a Barbie doll, which of course, we all knew about. Mariola and Marek's second son is getting married next August and we were invited to the wedding in Poland and I really hope we can attend. What a thrill that would be.
We are going to a Russian wedding this week! I'll let you know about it later
Question of the week: Do people have pets?
I have seen very few dogs. A few with their owners on the street; a few rare strays in the park, but I think relative to the population, very few. However, I have been told that the people in the sleeping district have dogs - at least one on every floor of the high rise. Remember that the sleeping districts are in the 'suburbs' and most of the buildings were built in soviet times and look to me like housing projects that have been neglected for years. Honestly, Cabrini Green (in Chicago) was in much better shape, from the outside, than these 'apartment' buildings look. I have been told the apartments look very nice inside, even though the outsides look terrible (remember, the government owns the exterior of the buildings, the individuals own the insides) However, where we live, downtown, there are lots of cats. I've been in a dress shop where they roamed freely; they are in the parks and on the streets. People feed the strays - a lady on our street built a lean-to shelter for some against a building next to the sidewalk. I don't know how they stay warm in the winter. I guess I will soon see.
Hugs to all
Terri
2008-10(Oct)-16 Novgorod Wood Village
http://picasaweb.google.com/terricallaway/NovgorodWoodVillage#
We took many pictures on our trip to Novgorod so here is another group - this Wood Village was recreated on a site of an old city, Vitoslavlitsy. The structures are period 1300 - 1800, all of wood. We had a lovely tour guide who was a resident of Novgorod who spoke very good English and had quite a nice sense of humor.
As she told it, the first structures the communities built were chapels or churches. Chapels were small and typically were used as meditative or resting places. The churches were larger and more grand. Of course, in rural areas, more grand still means a wood structure with perhaps, a dirt floor. We are talking about rural areas in 1400 here, not 1700 when Peter started building St. Petersburg as a copy of the great European cities. Russia has been a Christian country (except during the Soviet times) with their roots coming from the Eastern Orthodox tradition (remember, in about 1000, the Great Schism divided the medieval Christians into followers of the Eastern (Greek) and Western (Latin) churches).
Most of the structures were closed to the public. There were 'interpreters' in native costumes who explained to the Russian visitors what kind of lives people had then, you could peek into windows but really the insides were about the same as the outsides - logs, stripped of their bark and placed together perfectly - no nails. Absent also was any mud as filler for the spaces between the logs. As best I can tell they just fit together. All the intricate designs were made with hand tools and remember that we are very far north, so there was limited times to build with all the cold weather. Another interesting tidbit was that the villagers were taxed by the number of windows on their houses, so only the 'wealthy' had many windows. Probably a good thing since it got so cold. The roofs were also made of wood - looked like wood slats.
We did go into one house. The ceilings were extremely low and you climbed up to the top level to get to the living quarters. The ground floor (it actually was dirt) was used for storage and to house the animals when it rained or was cold. Upstairs there was a storage area for crops and one room for living. There was a clay stove/fireplace for cooking; people slept on hard wood benches; the very young and the oldest people (you know, the ones in their late 30s or 40s) slept in a small loft or above the stove to keep warm. Our guide said that the houses typically had an icon (religious painting) to remind them of their faith and 'charms' to keep away bad spirits. I guess in case God was too busy, when the pagan spirits were acting up!
I did find it interesting that these buildings were reconstructed on site and they did use nails - even if we knew how to build such structures today, it would have cost a fortune in man-hours to do. Even in Russian wages!
Now for the next question: DO you cook dinner for John every night?....:)
Of course, I am Betty Crocker (or perhaps Martha Stewart, Rachel Ray or Paula Dean) now! I do cook a couple of times per week. But actually we have left overs at least once from the cooking I do on Tuesday nights, we go out for pizza on Thursdays with co-workers, we usually do something with other couples on the weekend so I am not really cooking much - but enough for me - since most of you know I do not like to cook. We certainly are not starving here.
Hugs to all, Terri
We took many pictures on our trip to Novgorod so here is another group - this Wood Village was recreated on a site of an old city, Vitoslavlitsy. The structures are period 1300 - 1800, all of wood. We had a lovely tour guide who was a resident of Novgorod who spoke very good English and had quite a nice sense of humor.
As she told it, the first structures the communities built were chapels or churches. Chapels were small and typically were used as meditative or resting places. The churches were larger and more grand. Of course, in rural areas, more grand still means a wood structure with perhaps, a dirt floor. We are talking about rural areas in 1400 here, not 1700 when Peter started building St. Petersburg as a copy of the great European cities. Russia has been a Christian country (except during the Soviet times) with their roots coming from the Eastern Orthodox tradition (remember, in about 1000, the Great Schism divided the medieval Christians into followers of the Eastern (Greek) and Western (Latin) churches).
Most of the structures were closed to the public. There were 'interpreters' in native costumes who explained to the Russian visitors what kind of lives people had then, you could peek into windows but really the insides were about the same as the outsides - logs, stripped of their bark and placed together perfectly - no nails. Absent also was any mud as filler for the spaces between the logs. As best I can tell they just fit together. All the intricate designs were made with hand tools and remember that we are very far north, so there was limited times to build with all the cold weather. Another interesting tidbit was that the villagers were taxed by the number of windows on their houses, so only the 'wealthy' had many windows. Probably a good thing since it got so cold. The roofs were also made of wood - looked like wood slats.
We did go into one house. The ceilings were extremely low and you climbed up to the top level to get to the living quarters. The ground floor (it actually was dirt) was used for storage and to house the animals when it rained or was cold. Upstairs there was a storage area for crops and one room for living. There was a clay stove/fireplace for cooking; people slept on hard wood benches; the very young and the oldest people (you know, the ones in their late 30s or 40s) slept in a small loft or above the stove to keep warm. Our guide said that the houses typically had an icon (religious painting) to remind them of their faith and 'charms' to keep away bad spirits. I guess in case God was too busy, when the pagan spirits were acting up!
I did find it interesting that these buildings were reconstructed on site and they did use nails - even if we knew how to build such structures today, it would have cost a fortune in man-hours to do. Even in Russian wages!
Now for the next question: DO you cook dinner for John every night?....:)
Of course, I am Betty Crocker (or perhaps Martha Stewart, Rachel Ray or Paula Dean) now! I do cook a couple of times per week. But actually we have left overs at least once from the cooking I do on Tuesday nights, we go out for pizza on Thursdays with co-workers, we usually do something with other couples on the weekend so I am not really cooking much - but enough for me - since most of you know I do not like to cook. We certainly are not starving here.
Hugs to all, Terri
2008-10(Oct)-15 Novgorod Countryside
http://picasaweb.google.com/terricallaway/NovgorodCountryside#
This time I want to tell you about our trip to Novgorod, a city about 164 kilometers (102 miles according to the conversion chart that is a favorite on my computer - I convert everything - sizes for sheets, rugs; temperature outside and baking in the oven; distance; money - rubles to dollars) that we visited a couple of weeks ago. The city is one of the oldest in Europe - a religious and political capital and the fourth largest in the continent in the middle ages. The modern city has grown around the walled city (the Kremlin, which is the Russian word for fortress, castle, etc. I always thought the Kremlin was the buildings that comprised the government complex in Moscow and didn't realize it referred to the walled fortress of the city) so coming into the town we saw county places (dachas), most of which look to us like shacks of varying sizes. But remember the soviet run government has been gone only 15 years (actually less time for the country places) and building materials are hard to get for common folk since most don't have cars.
You guys only think we have bad traffic in the US. We were in a bus (like a charter bus that was very nice) and the trip there took at least 3 hours. Russia is the fastest growing auto market in the world (or so I have been told) but the roads are like county roads at best. There is one 'interstate' around St. Petersburg, the Ring, but even it has huge traffic jams. The trip home from Novgorod took 5 1/2 hours because they were repairing a strip of the road about a quarter of a mile long and they had traffic backed up for miles and miles. Half-way there we stopped at an "Away from the wives cafe" where we had a potty stop. I had no idea what to expect and the worst was confirmed. Suffice to say there was no running water and no seats. I have since learned these accommodations are fairly standard in the far east, India and rural eastern Europe. When I left Alabama, I never dreamed I would think our public rest rooms were something I would miss, but boy do I! Some of our group took pictures inside but I was too disgusted. Just use your imagination. And to think, most of the inhabitants of the world are used to this! Boy are we lucky to be Americans.
While in Novgorod, we visited the Kremlin and the wood village (more about those places next time). While at the wood village, we saw yet another wedding. I asked the translators the significance of the man with the whip and the woman with the leaf broom leading the way and I go the typical husband being the master and wife, the slave comment. Someone else wondered if they were Jewish. However it appears they must have reserved the guides from the wood village to walk along side them in costume. The family and guests walking behind the bride and groom were dressed normally.
The leaves are changing here and in fact, many trees are bare. Collecting maple leaves is done here just as I did when I was little. Jana found this collection that had been stringed into a crown and she modeled it for us. Jana was married this year on July 9, our anniversary.
Finally, for our construction friends - the scaffolding used here on many of the buildings being renovated here are made from trees that had recently been cut down. In many cases the scaffolding went up 3-4 stories. Didn't look too sturdy to me, but John said it was stronger than tying them together. Some reassurance!
This fisherman was kind enough to pose for me as we were walking across the Volkhov River. I loved the blue boots. I'll be sending another message soon - I have been busy lately
Question of the Week: Have you eaten at a McDonalds?
I got a coke when I was here in January (with no ice). However, the place is always packed. It is on Nevisky Prospect, the main street in the center of the city. The menu is really very much like the US menu. There is also Carl Jr (Hardees), KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut, to name a few chain restaurants. Honestly, we have not eaten at any of these chains. Mostly we try new restaurants, our 'regulars' or I cook. One comment however - there is no 'diet coke', it is called Coke Light. At a restaurant, when you get a coke, it is in a small bottle. Foreigners are advised to drink it as it is served - if you ask for ice you don't know what kind of water was used to make it. Russians (and most Europeans) don't use ice much so it is very unlikely they used bottled water to make the ice. Although the water is purified by the city, the pipes are very old, and bacterias have been found in the drinking supply. Locals are probably 'used' to it so it doesn't affect them the way it might affect visitors. At first I used bottled water to brush my teeth, now I only do it half the time because it is too much trouble. So far, no problems; John however always uses bottled water.
Until next time, Terri
This time I want to tell you about our trip to Novgorod, a city about 164 kilometers (102 miles according to the conversion chart that is a favorite on my computer - I convert everything - sizes for sheets, rugs; temperature outside and baking in the oven; distance; money - rubles to dollars) that we visited a couple of weeks ago. The city is one of the oldest in Europe - a religious and political capital and the fourth largest in the continent in the middle ages. The modern city has grown around the walled city (the Kremlin, which is the Russian word for fortress, castle, etc. I always thought the Kremlin was the buildings that comprised the government complex in Moscow and didn't realize it referred to the walled fortress of the city) so coming into the town we saw county places (dachas), most of which look to us like shacks of varying sizes. But remember the soviet run government has been gone only 15 years (actually less time for the country places) and building materials are hard to get for common folk since most don't have cars.
You guys only think we have bad traffic in the US. We were in a bus (like a charter bus that was very nice) and the trip there took at least 3 hours. Russia is the fastest growing auto market in the world (or so I have been told) but the roads are like county roads at best. There is one 'interstate' around St. Petersburg, the Ring, but even it has huge traffic jams. The trip home from Novgorod took 5 1/2 hours because they were repairing a strip of the road about a quarter of a mile long and they had traffic backed up for miles and miles. Half-way there we stopped at an "Away from the wives cafe" where we had a potty stop. I had no idea what to expect and the worst was confirmed. Suffice to say there was no running water and no seats. I have since learned these accommodations are fairly standard in the far east, India and rural eastern Europe. When I left Alabama, I never dreamed I would think our public rest rooms were something I would miss, but boy do I! Some of our group took pictures inside but I was too disgusted. Just use your imagination. And to think, most of the inhabitants of the world are used to this! Boy are we lucky to be Americans.
While in Novgorod, we visited the Kremlin and the wood village (more about those places next time). While at the wood village, we saw yet another wedding. I asked the translators the significance of the man with the whip and the woman with the leaf broom leading the way and I go the typical husband being the master and wife, the slave comment. Someone else wondered if they were Jewish. However it appears they must have reserved the guides from the wood village to walk along side them in costume. The family and guests walking behind the bride and groom were dressed normally.
The leaves are changing here and in fact, many trees are bare. Collecting maple leaves is done here just as I did when I was little. Jana found this collection that had been stringed into a crown and she modeled it for us. Jana was married this year on July 9, our anniversary.
Finally, for our construction friends - the scaffolding used here on many of the buildings being renovated here are made from trees that had recently been cut down. In many cases the scaffolding went up 3-4 stories. Didn't look too sturdy to me, but John said it was stronger than tying them together. Some reassurance!
This fisherman was kind enough to pose for me as we were walking across the Volkhov River. I loved the blue boots. I'll be sending another message soon - I have been busy lately
Question of the Week: Have you eaten at a McDonalds?
I got a coke when I was here in January (with no ice). However, the place is always packed. It is on Nevisky Prospect, the main street in the center of the city. The menu is really very much like the US menu. There is also Carl Jr (Hardees), KFC, Burger King, Pizza Hut, to name a few chain restaurants. Honestly, we have not eaten at any of these chains. Mostly we try new restaurants, our 'regulars' or I cook. One comment however - there is no 'diet coke', it is called Coke Light. At a restaurant, when you get a coke, it is in a small bottle. Foreigners are advised to drink it as it is served - if you ask for ice you don't know what kind of water was used to make it. Russians (and most Europeans) don't use ice much so it is very unlikely they used bottled water to make the ice. Although the water is purified by the city, the pipes are very old, and bacterias have been found in the drinking supply. Locals are probably 'used' to it so it doesn't affect them the way it might affect visitors. At first I used bottled water to brush my teeth, now I only do it half the time because it is too much trouble. So far, no problems; John however always uses bottled water.
Until next time, Terri
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